We developed this recipe in a 14-inch wok, but you can use a 12-inch nonstick or carbon-steel skillet instead. If using a skillet, use tongs to toss the cabbage greens and increase their cooking time by 1 minute. Sichuan Facing Heaven chiles are traditional, but you can use any small, dried hot chile such as arbol. For a spicier dish, use the larger amount of chiles. Serve with white rice.

• 1 head napa cabbage (2 pounds)
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons Zhenjiang black vinegar
• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 2½ teaspoons sugar
• 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
• 3 - 5 small dried chiles, stemmed, halved, and seeded
• 1 scallion, white and green parts separated and sliced thin
• 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic